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Thread: vacuum system

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2024
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Vermont
    Posts
    17

    Default vacuum system

    The pump on #3018 has a steel pipe running from the manifold T to the right hand port, looking at pump from front of engine, that has an integral 1/4" pipe, connected with a short rubber tube. the other port, just to the left, is a hole, with a loose fitting 1/4" pipe just inserted into hole with no resistance to keep it there. It proceeds down and under engine to connect to T and leads to frame tube. Curious as to what held tube in place 68 years ago. I'll epoxy mine. I'm guessing this 2nd port is a booster for vacuum under load but would it negatively affect any of the other dependent systems in line except for wiper speed if it was eliminated? I'm 3 months in on this fascinating/frustrating project and try to learn and understand something every day. The forum posts are a true gift! thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    4,728

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by arkusvt View Post
    The pump on #3018 has a steel pipe running from the manifold T to the right hand port, looking at pump from front of engine, that has an integral 1/4" pipe, connected with a short rubber tube. the other port, just to the left, is a hole, with a loose fitting 1/4" pipe just inserted into hole with no resistance to keep it there. It proceeds down and under engine to connect to T and leads to frame tube. Curious as to what held tube in place 68 years ago. I'll epoxy mine. I'm guessing this 2nd port is a booster for vacuum under load but would it negatively affect any of the other dependent systems in line except for wiper speed if it was eliminated? I'm 3 months in on this fascinating/frustrating project and try to learn and understand something every day. The forum posts are a true gift! thank you.
    I wouldn't epoxy anything. The pipe is held in place by vacuum. If you're concerned you can use a sealant. However, there is an excellent vacuum-tester, the engine. This is my preferred test. Using a flammable carb cleaner simply spray the joints of that connection, or any other. If the engine is warmed up spray a cleaner at the gaskets between the carb and manifold and the manifold to head. The combustable fluid will have an effect on rpm if it's sucked in. If you plug the hose that leads to the washer bottle that will isolate the majority of vacuum operated devices. Using vice grips crush the larger diameter hose running to the brake booster.

    By isolating the motor you need to shoot for maximum vacuum at the lowest rpm to first prove your engine's capability to sustain 19-21 inches of vacuum. You'll not be able to tune your car or get anything to work with any less.

    Working by process of elimination you can isolate problems. For doing dash work buy a $25 hand vacuum pump to test the rest of the components. The switch for the antenna is often plugged into the vacuum
    lines wrong as all 3 are the same size. The "spider valve" well hidden under the LH heater core is another problematic valve. The wiper switch has lines that can be installed backwards causing a vacuum leak by turning the switch on. That one you can hear. If you don't have a service manual you need one as it's the most complex system aside from from the window wiring.

    Just out of curiosity both ports on the pump have to be threaded for a Continental pump and slip fit for the Lincoln pump. I've never seen one of each leading me to think the push in one is loose because a
    threaded hole is not a tight enough fit to seal it with a push in fitting. Does the push in fitting have a stop on it? If not it may not be an original tube.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2024
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Vermont
    Posts
    17

    Default

    having zero experience with this, what I appear to see is a swedged in tube on the right, not threaded, with a rubber connection, coming from the manifold. the left one is a non-threaded hole with the under the engine pipe just stuffed into it. haven't tested further. no stop on the pushed in fitting.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Lake Zurich, Illinois
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Hey Bary,
    I was just reading this and wonder what the spider valve is you referred to.

    Are you referring to the valve for the heater water valves?

    I'm thinking about selling C56B2198.

    It's as nice as they come. Everything works as it should except for the window washers and the wipers don't work very well.

    I never drive in bad weather so I didn't worry about the wipers.

    I installed an electric antenna but still have the original vacuum antenna.

    I guess I will post this to new posts.

    I'm asking $100,000.00.

    Happy Thanksgiving
    Jack Bowser
    C56B2198
    Past Ownership 1991, 3206, and 1763
    2006 Ford GT
    2006 Cadillac XLR-V
    427 Cobra
    2012 Mercedes SLS AMG Roadster
    1924 Dodge Brothers Rat Rod
    Lots of Bowser gas Pumps

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    4,728

    Default

    Any plans for your antenna? Mine has a warped disc in the check valve and I could use a working antenna or one for parts.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

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