Air Condition

[Jack Bowser]

Today I took my Mark II to my local radiator shop to have my system charged in hopes that it may still be in working order.

Who knows how long my system has been without the R-12 but everything was there and looking to be in good condition.

I know it hasn't been working since I bought 2198 last fall and I was told by a previous owner that it sat in a Museum for quite some time.

On the plate by the window in the front of the trunk, it says to charge the system to a max of 6 Pounds.

We put in 2 pounds to start and watched for the dye to see if there are any leaks in the system,

The system blew 60 degree temp air at idle.

Everything seem to be working OK so we put another 2 pounds of R-12 in and the temp came down some more.

I drove home a happy camper with working air conditioning. Time will tell if there is a small leak somewhere.

I just had to tell someone. Ha

[Jeff Smith]

I have to ask: where did you go that still had R 12 available? I thought those days had long passed. Hope it continues to work with no leaks. Congratulations

[jdsnoddy]

How much did you pay for two pounds of R-12?
I'm happy for you that all is well.
John

[Jack Bowser]

Hi Jeff, We have a great Radiator shop here in my area and he still has some R 12. It's $80.00 a pound so I hope it doesn't leak.

It's been 9 days since he charged it and it's still blowing nice and cold so I may be lucky.

[Jack Bowser]

Hi John, $80.00 a pound and we put in 4 pounds.

The tag on the system in the trunk says 6.5 pounds max but my system is blowing nice and cold with 4 pounds.

[jdsnoddy]

That is great deal. Thanks so much. John

[JAPAC]

All I can say is good for you. It seems I've always had ac problems and trouble finding someone to solve them.

[Keith W Colonna]

I once lost a full charge of R12 when reactivating my system with a rebuilt compressor. There was an unidentified leak in a line under the car.
Since then, I've switched to 134 (not to start that debate again). An old timer told me that he used to subscribe to the evacuate, purge, change oil process, but in the many years since then he has topped off old R12 systems, adding new oil if needed, charging to lower pressures and had great results. I've used that procedure without problems for years....that's my experience. I'd use R12 again except for that terrible $$$$ loss when it leaked out.

[Don Henschel]

Generally I pressure test any system after recovering what's left of R12/134 before evacuating (place the system on a vacuum) and recharging. I have had systems that leaked out slowly due to cracks on compressor housings due to bolts that were too long and bottomed out in the hole or leaking crimps on hoses or hoses in general. It also has to hold vacuum as well and I have seen where a damaged hose held under pressure but leaked under vacuum! And how many compressors have we seen burned out because whoever "charged" the system lacked the knowledge or ambition to check the oil level often lost during a leak?? If they don't make any attempt to check and or add oil walk away! At least there are places down in the States still selling R12 not up here in Canada. I also stay away from those butane/propane refrigerants as well. I replaced enough compressors wrecked from that garbage due to only 30% being required which isn't enough refrigerant to properly carry and circulate the oil around unless more oil is added. Quite simply Mickey Mouse!

[Matt Cashion]

I agree with Don. A standing pressure test with nitrogen should be done anytime the system is opened up or major component replaced. Soap bubble test all fittings that were loosened during repairs as well. I like Big Blue leak detector myself as it produces micro bubbles on very small leaks.