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Thread: Finally got my car. Now about those brakes...

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Finally got my car. Now about those brakes...

    My car has been converted to a dual brake hydraulic system and a different booster, which may be a very good or a very bad thing. Can anyone identify what I have and/or does anyone have any experiences with same, good or bad? It has NOT been converted to disc brakes.56 Mark II brake booster and mcy.jpg
    Paul E Davis
    C56H3229

  2. #2
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    It is not an aftermarket booster and master cylinder. It is a OEM unit of undetermined make to me. Can you take a picture from the other side and maybe with the cap off, please?
    Jay Hillsten
    C56F3099

  3. #3
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    It's a standard Ford master from the early 70s. It is used for disc front drum rear. The larger rear chamber is for the front disc. I see no reason it won't work on drums. The only reason the chamber is larger is to provide more volume to the calipers.
    C56-91291,
    1952 Ford F-1 Pick-up,
    1962 Chevrolet Impala 427,
    1973 Harley-Davidson FL

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  5. #4
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    Drum brake master cylinders usually have a 10 lb. residual valve built into them. A master cylinder from a disc front/drum rear car has the residual valve for the drums built into the combination valve (the brass valve you see on production cars - it is a combination metering and proportioning valve with a low level light switch built in) It may be just the angle of the picture, but your master cylinder looks to have a brake light switch installed off of one of the master cylinder ports? Also make sure your brake line is not close to the exhaust - if it is, the fluid can heat up and boil with a loss of braking ability. Can you take closer pictures of the master cylinder? For disc front/drum rear, we use a 1" bore master cylinder and a 1 1/8" bore for disc/disc applications. A drum/drum setup could use a 7/8" bore master cylinder For more pressure.
    Jay Hillsten
    C56F3099

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  7. #5
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    My thoughts precisely regarding proximity of exhaust to brake line. Pedal gets hard and no amount of extra leg exertion increases braking. I have convinced myself that a disc brake conversion is in both my best interest as well as the cars. No reason to immolate a Pinto because I can't stop. Anyone have suggestions or reviews on available change overs? I possess sufficient skills, equipment and tools to install a well sorted "kit". Not afraid to do the work. Good winter project, IMHO.
    Paul E Davis
    C56H3229

  8. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Junk View Post
    My thoughts precisely regarding proximity of exhaust to brake line. Pedal gets hard and no amount of extra leg exertion increases braking. I have convinced myself that a disc brake conversion is in both my best interest as well as the cars. No reason to immolate a Pinto because I can't stop. Anyone have suggestions or reviews on available change overs? I possess sufficient skills, equipment and tools to install a well sorted "kit". Not afraid to do the work. Good winter project, IMHO.
    I have installed a couple of kits provided by American Brake and Steering (ABS) they are bolt on and include all the parts for the front brake conversion (except the tubing). You may have to change the wheels because of clearance, check with rodparts and Jay can help with that.
    C56-91291,
    1952 Ford F-1 Pick-up,
    1962 Chevrolet Impala 427,
    1973 Harley-Davidson FL

  9. #7
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    Default More info on conversion please

    Quote Originally Posted by RODPARTS View Post
    Drum brake master cylinders usually have a 10 lb. residual valve built into them. A master cylinder from a disc front/drum rear car has the residual valve for the drums built into the combination valve (the brass valve you see on production cars - it is a combination metering and proportioning valve with a low level light switch built in) It may be just the angle of the picture, but your master cylinder looks to have a brake light switch installed off of one of the master cylinder ports? Also make sure your brake line is not close to the exhaust - if it is, the fluid can heat up and boil with a loss of braking ability. Can you take closer pictures of the master cylinder? For disc front/drum rear, we use a 1" bore master cylinder and a 1 1/8" bore for disc/disc applications. A drum/drum setup could use a 7/8" bore master cylinder For more pressure.
    Now I have cleared all the paperwork hurdles for mt state and now have the car properly licensed, the next step is to get reliable brakes on it. I see mention of changing wheels for the disc brake conversion which I understand for caliper clearance, but I surely wish to use the OE wheel covers. Can you tell me more regarding a front disc changeover, and based on how my booster/master cylinder is acting a compatible booster/master cylinder unit that will not be as scarce should service be required at a later date. I can give you my email if you wish, as I don't get back to the forum as often as I would like.
    Thanks in advance, Paul
    Paul E Davis
    C56H3229

  10. #8
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    Mark II Enterprises assures me that their front disc conversion will retain OE wheels and therefore covers, so now that the parts are here, first warm weekend I'll change the oil in all my daily drivers and tie my lift up with the Mark until it has front disc brakes and I can feel comfortable driving it. Really anxious to see how things go together. And for the purists, I will of course, retain all the OE parts.
    Paul E Davis
    C56H3229

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  12. #9
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    There's nothing wrong with stock Mark II brakes done right. There's something wrong with just about every conversion ever done.

    Replace the 4 hoses and brake cylinders and have the new shoes arc'd to match the drums and you have a fine, powerful, reliable system that stops the car under just about every condition. If you have brake fade you're not driving the car under normal or safe conditions. Millions of miles have been put on these things without failure.

    The people that swoon over conversions are comparing out of spec drum brakes to new disc. Of course they work better, until you have a situation where front/rear bias matters.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

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    Roadfilm (02-11-2018)

  14. #10
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    Oct 2017
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    I just completed a full brake job on mine with all new stock parts and it stops great. Before, I was convinced I would want a disc brake conversion, but after a total brake job with all new parts Im convinced the stock version is well up to the task.
    Mike Pettey
    C56Q3710

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    Barry Wolk (02-11-2018), Jeff Smith (02-12-2018), Mark II Seeker (02-12-2018), Nick DeSpirito (02-15-2018), rickswrecks (02-11-2018), Robert McGuire (02-12-2018)

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