2285 - Body Off

[Bigb]

I have done a few cars over the years, but these cars are certainly the most complicated! Removed the body two weeks ago, frame is now at powder coaters, hope to have the frame in my garage next week. Engine and drivetrain are complete now, I look forward20232 to getting the chassis rolling in the next month. Anybody have any good ideas on how to line up the two copper AC lines on the frame to mate with the AC unit in car upon marring the two? 2023320234

[Joseph Stebbins]

Looks good! Why did you keep the hood on the car? (Since it weighs more than most new cars weigh complete!)

[jdsnoddy]

This VIN is a little confusing; really C56C2285 or 2285. Thanks for the pics. Best regards, John

[Bluegrass]

Hello, I will be pulling the body from mine soon. Do you have any more pictures or advise that might help?
Thanks, Jim

[Bigb]

The body guy did not want to loose his current alignment at that time, since im not doing the body work, I didn't question it.

[Bigb]

2285 is correct, my error

[Bigb]

here are some pics of the frame then & now 20461 2046220463204642046520466

[Knickoliss Iv]

Very nice frame! Looking at how the AC lines are I would leave them loose from the frame. In place, just not bolted in the brackets until after the fittings are screwed together without being stressed. This way you have the most play without having to bend the lines to tweak them together.

[lld]

Looks great!

I suggest that you leave the bolts for the control arm bushings a little loose until everything is assembled and the weight of the car is being transmitted through the wheels. The bushings are meant to be locked in place under full dead weight load.

Larry

[Bigb]

Good point! I'm sending the old A/C lines out today, have a guy replicating them, I'm over bending tube! Fuel and brake lines where enough.

[Bigb]

Yes, everything up front is pretty much loose

[Bigb]

Updated Photos of rolling chassis #2285
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[Bigb]

Update chassis with motor now in! 20557 20558

[Mark Norris]

Looks great!

With everything so accessible now would be a good time to fit the exhaust header bolt extension tubes.

[Egenolf]

Yes, looks great!

It would be nice if I had already done so much on 2503.

[Bigb]

Is there something on this I should be aware of on fitment? I do plan to attach the entire exhaust just for the sake of proper placement of the hangers. As it sits right now I don't believe the exhaust is hung correctly, it just docent seem to have the right lines. I am going to install the system from the motor back, that way I know exactly where everything sits. Any past experience is appreciated. Heck, I though this would be one of the easier things to accomplish, but given that its a Mark II nothing is normal about it.

[Bigb]

Thank you,
I wouldn't want to do 2 of these cars! Its always cheaper to purchase them done, however IMO not nearly as fun as doing it yourself, and knowing once its done that "everything" has been attended to. Its all good...

[Mark Norris]

Is there something on this I should be aware of on fitment? I do plan to attach the entire exhaust just for the sake of proper placement of the hangers. As it sits right now I don't believe the exhaust is hung correctly, it just docent seem to have the right lines. I am going to install the system from the motor back, that way I know exactly where everything sits. Any past experience is appreciated. Heck, I though this would be one of the easier things to accomplish, but given that its a Mark II nothing is normal about it.

Each exhaust header is attached by 2 bolts (front flange) + 3 bolts (middle flange) + 2 bolts (rear flange). The front and rear flange bolts (4 off per side) are longer by approx 7/8". They are fitted with steel sleeve tubes (approx. 7/8" long) that slide over the threads. There has been some debate on the forum as to why they are arranged this way. I would expect its got something to do with building elastic stretch into the bolt when tightening them up so that repeated heat cycling does not end up with a) loose bolts, or b) snapped bolts. Note originally in the factory the headers were fitted without gaskets so the bolts had to be relied upon the stay tight (I think most people fit gaskets now). Here is a photo of how bolt and sleeve arrangement looks from a period photo;

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You'll need 8 tubes for both headers (or manifolds as we would call them over here in Europe). I've seen them on Ebay once or twice (if I recall correctly Holger got the last ones!) but I simply bought stainless steel spacers (the sleeves were lost on my engine), again on Ebay.

You can certainly fit them when the body is back on but it'll be a bit easier before.

Apart from that the fitment of the headers looks just fine.

[Bigb]

Ah Ha! I have those spacers, they were in a box of parts that came back when the engine was rebuild. They plated them with other hardware, but did not install them.

Thank you!

[Egenolf]

Here is another picture with the installed spacers:

20563

https://up.picr.de/39079801wl.jpeg