Master Cylinder and Gas Question

[Braveheart]

I just purchased 2662 and have two questions.
1. I'm replacing the booster and master cylinder and I need to know how to connect the rod that comes out of the back of the brake booster to the pedal linkage in the firewall. Is it simply a bolt or is some type of rod with a clip.
2. Does the car require a lead additive or is the lead free gas "OK" to use in the car?
Thank you
Braveheart

[jdsnoddy]

Chris:
You can run your car on lead free gasoline.
Recommend using the highest octane you can find.
If you use lead free gas and experience dieseling or pinging, just add a lead additive to your tank. Some Marinas sell ethanol free gasoline which also helps.
Good luck. John

[lld]

Christopher,

There is a 5/16" diameter bolt that runs through the brake pedal clevis and the heim joint on the brake plunger. At the moment, I can't remember if there is a nut on the bolt as well.

Larry

[Braveheart]

Thank you
Braveheart

[Jack Bowser]

Lead additives are a good idea but not really necessary because we are not driving our cars real hard or pulling trailers.

The length of the 5/16 bolt must not be too long or it can get hung up prohibiting the pedal to move as far as necessary.

I think I have a lock nut on mine for insurance but make sure the brake pedal has full swing.

[lld]

I also added an external brake pedal return spring to mine after having the Treadle unit rebuilt; it is described in another thread. Ed Strain who has a shop that rebuilds these told me that they should have a return spring even though it was not part of the original design.


Larry

[Don Henschel]

Lead in fuel has been extinct since the early 80's and was nothing more than a cheap octane booster with Premium having the most. I'm reminded of this thinking of some brands calling it Ethyl and years ago we had an Esso gas station run by an older couple. As it turned out the wife's name was Ethel and a friend of the husband said "John, you have been pumping Ethyl for many years" referring to John pumping gas for many years. Well unfortunately Ethel was standing beside John and John's friend received a slap for misunderstanding what the friend really meant.

[jdsnoddy]

Thanks for this. LOL. Very funny.

[Don Henschel]

John I most certainly agree about your recomondation on find the highest octane available! NO I don't use the vacuum gauge method of timing, instead I use what has been referred to as the "ping drop" method for years. Advance the timing until it pings and then drop it back until only a very slight intermittent ping occurs by placing the transmission in D and pressing hard on the brake pedal, next press down the accelerator for very short periods listening for pinging and detonation. Of course you want the engine fully warmed up such as a few miles on the highway or if all else fails like I do bring a wrench along and park on an approach and tweak. My available gas is a joke with octane barely 91-92 and it also took me a long time to find a very good octane booster that actually works. Formula 112 made in Canada is what I use and it only needs a couple of ounces with our so called Premium to work, not a full bottle in a 5 gallon Jerry can that still isn't enough. Using regular gas in these engines when they are in top shape is quite simply a joke and if you actually drive a Mark II and can't afford Premium grade something is most certainly wrong. Use regular with timing knocked way back and gee I wonder why it doesn't run as well as it should?? The highest octane engines were in the mid to late fifties and when the sixties arrived they started re designing and octane in the mid to higher 90's was good enough so the story goes in one or more articles I have read mentioned. While we are at it lets mention the carburetor and how it is often blamed including the Holley of which I refuse to swap out because in reality they are not bad at all! The engine runs terrible so let's blame the carburetor instead of giving the engine a compression test, using an ohmmeter and testing all ignition wires, checking the points, condenser, and of course the distributor cap and yes use premium fuel. If you have poor compression on all cylinders or even one you will have a poor running and performing engine as well. The engine idles great but misses under acceleration? Air is an insulator and when you open the throttle more air enters the cylinders requiring higher ignition voltage. If you have a faulty ignition wire, this is usually where a missing cylinder shows up which is under acceleration. A totally bad wire and or plug will cause a miss even at idle. Oh BTW the owner of The Carburetor Shop who has carburetor kits for most makes and models said he rebuilt his first Holley "Teapot" when he was 14 and it lasted 100,000 miles and he tells the people that scoff at the Holley's "if a 14 year old can rebuild one that lasted 100,000 miles, what does that tell you about the so called experts that say they are no good??" As he put it upstaged by a 14 year old and he laughed about this. He preferres Carter but agrees with me that these Holley are very good if somebody knows what they are doing! While your at it make sure the exhaust heat riser valve is in working order as well otherwise you will have hesitation etc. because the intake is taking forever to warm up.

[jdsnoddy]

Don:
This is an excellent posting. Wise words of advice for anyone who drives a Mark II. Very best regards, John

[Don Henschel]

It also makes me wonder about the wringing of hands on additives being removed from oil as well and flat tappet engines. There are still thousands of flat tappet engines out there including heavy duty/industrial Diesel engines still with flat tappet and not roller. Our engine oils are much better than they used to be regardless. I remember very well when lead was removed and one could say it was like the sky was falling with people thinking their valves would burn and needed lead for lubricant. How long did your spark plugs last? It was common to replace every 10,000 miles and I used to clean and regap them to limp them along another 10,000! At the end of those 10,000 they were finished and totally eroded. My 1950 Mercury had 40,000+ miles on the plugs and out of pity I purchased a new set. When I pulled the plugs they were still excellent clearly indicating the lead previously used was the culprit. It made me wonder how much it would shorten the life of the rings as well. Oh yes I even disassembled engines where the lead built up so severely on the valve stem below valve it tore out the guide as the valve opened and closed from the "cone of lead". The majority of the 80,000+ miles on my Mercury since total rebuild of the engine were after lead was removed and the valves and tappets are still fine. Ford had camshaft problems in the 50's and GM during the 70's and 80's and it was comical how badly worn they would become prematurely all the while using oil with zinc. It was common that if you overhauled or did a valve job on a small black Chevy you would change the camshaft. The oil is even more than good enough for the air filter as well especially when the cylindrical paper elements for the 50's and 60's are becoming difficult to get up here in the Snow Mexican republic of Canuckastan:o Use good quality oil, proper octane and of course proper maintenance and things will work just fine.